China Travel—Exploring Shichahai in Beijing

Shichahai is often referred to by foreign tourists as “Houhai” or “Back Lake,” where they usually go drinking in the bar area at night.

In fact, Houhai is just a part of Shichahai. Shichahai is composed of three lakes: Qianhai (Front Lake), Houhai (Back Lake), and Xihai (West Lake). Sometimes, locals also use “Houhai” to refer to the entire Shichahai area.

（Map of the Shichahai Area）

Literal Meaning of Shichahai: “Lake of Ten Temples”

The name “Shichahai” literally means “Lake of Ten Temples,” signifying that there were once ten temples surrounding the area. Today, some of these temples still remain, including Guangji Temple, Huitong Temple, Huoshen Temple, and Guangfu Taoist Temple, among others.

If you are tired of Beijing’s gentrification; if you have lost interest in modern Beijing; if you feel sad that Beijing is becoming less like Beijing; if you want to see a traditional Beijing; if you are looking for a quiet place in bustling Beijing, then come to Shichahai!

Tip 1: The ABCs of Shichahai

Shichahai has a history of over 800 years, predating the city’s development that began during the Yuan Dynasty (1279–1368). 700 years ago, it was part of the Grand Canal system during the Yuan Dynasty.

Due to its beautiful scenery and charming environment, many temples in Beijing were built around Shichahai. Today, you can still find some temples there that evoke memories of bygone days.

For the same reasons, many social elites, public figures, including former members of the royal family, chose Shichahai as a temporary or permanent residence. These include the Prince Gong Mansion, the Prince Chun Mansion, the former residence of Soong Ching-ling, and the former residence of Guo Moruo.

During the Yuan Dynasty (1279–1368), the unique hutong city layout began to take shape here. Today, you can still find many locals living in these alleyway courtyards (siheyuan), which gradually formed around 800 years ago.

Nearby Shichahai is the Bell and Drum Towers, which were used to announce the time in the past and now serve as tourist attractions.

Nowadays, Shichahai is a paradise for locals. In winter, you can skate; in spring, you can admire the flowers and willows; in summer, you can go boating; in autumn, you can enjoy the lotus flowers. Throughout the year, you can drink, dine, and shop.

It’s also a meeting point between East and West. Shichahai is the fastest-growing late-night drinking spot, filled with trendy bars. A few dance halls are in the works, but for now, it remains the best place in the city for a quiet drink.

Tip 2: When to Visit

Shichahai is essentially open year-round and free of charge. No matter what season you visit or what time of day you come, you will see a different, yet equally charming Shichahai.

If you’re an early riser, the Shichahai area offers a tranquil and peaceful morning, or on a clear day, you can experience a rosy morning. You can fully enjoy Shichahai, now filled with the old-world charm of the Ming and Qing Dynasty Grand Canal system and architecture.

If you are a sunset chaser or cameraman, Shichahai is definitely the right place to add up to your “most gorgeous sunsets” list. 

If you like to hang out in the evening, Shichahai is a great place to kill your time, drinking and gossiping. Shichahai is shot through with chic bars and restaurants.

Hiding yourself in one of the bars and escaping the hustle and bustle of the crazy world temporarily. 

If you would like have a window shopping for a flea-market type of experience, Yandai Xiejie at Shichahai is a perfect place.

Yandai Byway or Old Pipe Street is one of such old commercial streets that showcase Beijing’s past. 

Ice skating is a traditional winter pastime for the local Beijing people.

If you are scheduled to visit Beijing in winter, specifically in the coldest two months from later December through the early February, you may go to Houhai Ice Skating Rink for winter fun in Beijing. 

Actually you can come here any time of the day and any season to explore Shichahai.

It is now full of the old world air with its attractive vibe, a lively place rife with people; chic and quaint bars and restaurants; old Beijing snacks and food; old Beijing symbols and special product. 

Tip 3: Top things to do in Shichahai

So let’s sum up the top things to do and see in Shichahai.

1) Up Beijing Bell and Drum Tower and have bird’s-eye view of the surrounding communities of hutongs and siheyuan – existing traditional Beijing.

2) Walk along Yandai Xiejie ( Tobacco Pipe Lean Street ), a quaint 800-year-old hutong located directly north of Yinding Bridge and the south of the Drum Tower. It used to be well-known for selling long-stemmed pipes, hence the name.

3) Standing on the Silver Ingot Bridge ( Yinding Bridge ), a narrow bridge linking Qianhai Lake and Houhai Lake, the hub of Shichhai area with surrounding hutongs, bars and restaurants.

4) Explore some typical hutongs in the Shichahai area such as Da Jinsi Hutong Tao, the most famous hutongs keeping the original layout of Hutong Area.

5) Get on a rickshaw to go through the zigzag and narrow alleys or hutongs.

6) Take a boat cruising on the Shichahai Lake in Qianhai and Houhai of Shichahai. Rent a boat and paddle your way around the lake area to enjoy the sunset on the water.

7) Hang out in the evening, or in the daytime, and kill your time, drinking, reading and gossiping here.

8) Exlore the Prince Gong’ Mansion. It was once the private residence of He Shen, a favorite minister of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty (1644-1911), it was first built in 1777. In 1851, the mansion was given to Prince Gong by Emperor Xianfeng (1851-1862), hence the name. Now it is one of the most well preserved mansions in Beijing.

9) See the former residence of Mr.Mei Lanfang (1894 – 1961), the internationally famous Beijing Opera master, founder of one of the three greatest acting methods created by Shakespeare Stanislavsky and Meilanfang.

10) Explore the former residence of Soong Ching Ling ( 1890-1981 ), once a garden of one of the Qing Dynasty princes’ mansions. She was late Honorary Chairman of the People’s Republic of China. She is known as “the Mother of China”.

11) Visit the residence of Gu Moruo. Guo Meruo Memorial Hall (1892-1978) was an outstanding Chinese writer, poet, dramatist, historian, archaeologist and palaeographer.

12) In winter, skating on Houhai Lake.

Tip 4: Scams in the Shicahai area

1) Be wary of some unethical rickshaw drivers who rip you off by offering you exorbitant prices since there is no fixed official price for the rickshaw tour, meaning that non-Chinese tourists get quoted inflated prices. Normally RMB 50 per hour. You have to haggle with the rickshaw drivers!

2) Shichahai rickshaws are also restricted in their route access mainly due to the different administrative zones. For instance, rickshaw drivers in Houhai area are not allowed to go to Bell Tower and Drum Tower since Houhai is under administration of Xicheng District while Bell and Drum Tower under Dongcheng District, which sounds a little tricky!

3) Rickshaw drivers are paid a fee for taking tourists to tea houses around Shichahai area. Be wary of tea scam!

Tip 5: How to get there

Take subway line 6 and get off at the station of Beihai North ( 北海北) and exit from Exit B. Then walk along the sidewalk to the east for about 200 meters, you will see crowds of people on your left side and now you are on the entrance to Shichahai area. The entrance has a large archway engraved with the four Chinese characters “荷花市场” （ Lotus Market).

Route 1: Take subway 2 or 5 and get off the station of Lama Temple. First visit Lama Temple. After finishing Lama temple, then come out of the temple, on your right side across the street, you will find a street with an arc.

It is the famous Chengxian Street. Walking west along the street, you will come across Kong Miao (Temple of Confucius) and the neighboring Guozijian (Imperial Academy). Walking along Guozijian Jie west until it meets Andingmennei Dajie. Enter this commercial road, turn left and walk south to Guloudong Dajie, another major thoroughfare.

Turn right (west) and walk to Drum Tower. Returning south to Dianmenwai Dajie ( north of Drum Tower), turning onto Yandai Jie, the first lane on the right. A board on the right tells that makers of long-stem pipes once lined the lane’s narrow way. Turn left onto the arched bridge Yinding Qiao that separates Houhai and Qianhai lakes.

Route 2: First visit Beihai Park, then go out of its north gate. Shichahai is just north of Beihai Park‘s north gate ( Back Gate). Walking along the Qianhai area and hutongs.
Public Bus:
Take public bus No. 5, 60, 107, 108, and No.111 then get off at Drum tower or North Gate of Beihai Park
Business hours of Bar street: 10:30-13:00 and 17:00-21:00